|
Lake Toba
Medan
Medan is the capital
of North Sumatra Province Country Indonesia, a trading center and
important harbour. Once part of the Deli Sultanate, the Mesjid Besar
(Grand Mosque) and the Palace of the Sultan of Deli have been restored
their past grandeur.
Medan's harbor, Belawan, is the sea link to Penang, Malaysia. Regular
flights to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Amsterdam, Vienna, and
Jakarta are available, as well as destinations in Sumatra.

Pandang Tele Tower
There are several
tourist attractions on Samosir island and its surrounding area which can
be visited from Tele and Tomok, tourist attraction gateways.
Tele is a gateway for
tourist attractions in the highlands. From this highland we can see
Samosir island in the centre of Lake Toba, as well as the Pusuk Buhit
and Toba area.
Pandang Tower was
built with four levels so that tourists could have a better view of the
area. There is a parking area, a restaurant, a tourist information
office, and toilets.
Pusuk Buhit
If
tourists want to get to the Pusuk Buhit area from Tele they should go
down along the steeply curved road (24 km).
Pusuk Buhit is a high
mountain at the shore of Lake Toba in the Northern part of Tele. Many
people believe that Pusuk Buhit is the place where the first Bataks came
from. They think it was the place where "Mula Jadinabolon" (The Almighty
Creator) came down and then spread humanity out into all directions from
there.
There are various
tourism attractions which are related to this story such as: rice
cultivation at the foot of Pusuk Buhit, Sianjur Mula-mula village, Batu
Parhusipan, Batu Pargasipan, Batu Nanggar, Batu Hobon, Aek Sipitu Dai,
Aek Boras and Mual Siboru Pareme.
Pangururan
Pangururan
is an economical and governmental centre on Samosir. From the town of
Pangururan we can visit tourist attractions in the Samosir area such as
Pangururan hot springs (3 km), Simanindo (22 km), Sakkal cave (26 km),
and Siallagan (35 km).
Simanindo
Simanindo has tourist
attractions like Huta Gok Asi where performances of the Naposo dance (a
marriage dance) can be seen everyday. There is also the Huta Bolon
Museum.
The village of Huta
Bolon is also known for its dance performances like Mangalahat Horbo,
Sigale-gale and Tunggal Panaluan which are performed at 11:30 pm
everyday. There is Tao Lake which is 2 km from the beach to Lake Toba.
In this island we will
find hotels and restaurants which are frequented by tourists everyday.
We can also enjoy the song birds that are perched on branches and going
back and forth among the trees.
Siallagan
Going up from
Simanindo village and going along Lake Toba we will get to the village
of Siallagan. In this place there is a tourist attraction called the
village of King Siallagan which is surrounded by stone walls.
To get to this place
we have to enter a small gate and in the centre of the village there are
rows of traditional Batak houses with remnants of King Siallagan's
heritage like sitting chairs and stone tables.
According to the
people around the village it was a place for King Siallagan to lead the
meetings and a location for carrying out the death sentence for
criminals in the past centuries.
Tourists can get to
these attractions and to souvenir and craft shops by using public boat
transportation.
Tuktuk Siadong
Tuktuk
Siadong, which about 5 km from Siallagan, is a peninsula which sticks
out far into Lake Toba. Because of its strategis location with its
slightly sloping beach.
Tuktuk Siadong
developed as a tourist centre. It has hotels, bars, restaurants, etc.
Many tourists visit this place and do many different activities such as
walking along the shore, bathing, and sun bathing.
Tourist can get to
Tuk-tuk by water transportation from Ajibata / Parapat which takes
around 35 minutes.
Tomok
Tourist
can get to most of the tourist attractions above through the main
gateway of Tomok. Tourist boats and ferries always stop at Tomok's pier.
Tomok is famous for
King's Sidabutar stone tomb. We can also watch performances of the
Sigale-gale dance (a dance which uses a wooden statue that is made to
follow the movements of the music). We can get more information on this
tourist attraction at the Tourism Information Office
Lagundi
30 km to the south of
Tomok we will get to get a tourist attraction called "Lagundi". Lagundi
is a beautiful sand beach at the edge of Lake Toba. Due to its good
location and scenery, this place has been upgraded to a camping ground
with well-equipped facilities
Missionary Dr. I.L. Nommensen's Grave Site
There are church
tourist attractions in Sigumpar. These are churches founded by
missionary Dr.I.L.Nommensen. His family's grave site is also there.
Nommensen was a German
missionary who spread Christianity among the Bataks starting from Sait
Ni Huta Tarutung
Balige
Balige is located at
the edge of Lake Toba and as a centre of government and economic
activity in the Toba area.
There are tourist
attractions like Balige beach, Lumban Silintong, a cultural centre, the
revolutionary hero monument of Mayjend D.I. Panjaitan, a monument of
King Sisingamangaraja XII, Pagar Batu swimming pool and Gurgur rest
house.
Muara
If you go from Balige
you can reach Muara by land or by boat. If you go by pubic
transportation you will pass through the Huta Ginjang highland.
From Huta Ginjang you
can see the marvellous panorama of Toba resort. Lake Toba, Samosir
island, Muara beach, Sibandang island and Bakkara. Besides, from this
place we can visit Sibandang island where there are many mango trees
growing.
Bakkara
Still at the edge of
Lake Toba (10 km from Muara ) we can visit tourist attractions in the
Bakkara area. These include Aek Sipangolu which is believed to be able
to help people recover from many kinds of illnesses.
This was also the
location of King Sisingamangaraja XI and X palace, Sulu-sulu spear
Hariara cane, King Sisinggamangaraja 's stone chair, Siungkap-ungkapon
stone, rice cultivation and Bakkara beach
Tarutung
Tarutung
is a tourist transit for people who travel through Medan, Parapat,
Balige Tarutung, Sibolga, and Padang. This capital of North Tapanuli
Regency is located in the Silindung valley with two broad areas of rice
cultivation and two big rivers: the Sigeaon and Situmandi rivers.
There are many tourist
attractions around the city of Tarutung. These are the big love cross in
Siatas Barita, Dame church (the first church in Batak land), Nommensen's
monument, Sipaholon hot spring, Hutabarat hot spring, Parbubu soda
water, an arts building, missionary Lyman and Munson graves at Lobu
Pining in Adian Koting regency (20 km to Sibolga), a traditional woven
cloth centre with Batak motifs and colours which is located on Lumban
Siagian and Hutagalung, and King Sisingamangaraja XlI's monument.
Tourists can go
shopping for pineapples in Huta gurgur in Sihobuk, rice cakes in
Simorangkir and also various kinds of cloth with Tarutung motifs.
Siatas Barita
Siatas Barita is a
hill at the edge of Tarutung (Rura Silindung).There is a big cross built
as a memorial to missionary Dr .I.L. Nommensen where he first entered
Rura Silindung. From this place we can see the marvellous panorama of
Rura Silindung.
The
grave sites of the missionaries Munson and Lyman
Munson and Lyman were
the first missionaries who wanted to spread Christianity in North
Tapanuli before I.L Nommesen came.
However, before
starting their mission they were caught and killed by King Panggalamei
at Lobu pining in the sub-district of Adian Koting
King
Sisingamangaraja XII
Introduction
"Ahuu
Sisingamangaraja"
This was the last
utterance of King Sisingamangaraja XII before a bullet pierced his body
after waging guerilla warfare for 30 years (1877 - 1907) with the Dutch.
He was shot with a gun (which at the time was popularly known as "Bedil
Selatan" by Hamisi (who was not a Moslem or a Christian) from Tabelo -
Halmahera. He was known as the Tiger of Aceh who was under the command
of Captain H. Christoffel.
Nobody likes colonialism. People have always felt that way in the past.
They still feel the same today and will still feel that way in the
future. When modern colonialism spread over North Sumatra, the people in
the Batak region people spontaneously reacted to right for their rights.
This happened even though the idea of Unity and integrity was not vet
recognized and officially written by the people.
The Expansion of Colonialism In North
Sumatra
Until the mid
nineteenth century, North Sumatra were considered to be isolated. In
other words, they did not have any contacts with the outside world.
However, after some scientific research this assumption has been proved
wrong.
Historically, the
people here have had continuous contacts with others. They were believed
to adhere to their own culture. Moreover, as proof we can refer to the
Christian Nestorian Denomination which was founded in the XII century in
Fansur (or now named Barus). This indicates that they made contacts with
others and these had caused several changes in society.
One of the main changes that had come about as a result of the contact
was the relationship with Portugal, Spain, The UK, The Netherlands and
France. Many people sensed the high competition among the visitors who
wanted to establish colonies in that place.
It was also felt by the Sisingamangaraja Dynasty which had been on the
throne for 12 generations This dynasty existed in the middle of XII
century. King Sisingamangaraja was enthroned in 1875 in Bakara when he
was at the age of 17.
The competition
between the Dutch and the English became more distinct. They each wanted
to control the marketing of goods. This eventually forced them to sign
the London Agreement (1824) that allowed the Dutch more space to act
freely in Indonesia. For commercial and economic reasons, the Dutch
became more ambitious to conquer the archipelago, especially, after
there was a war in Java (1825 - 1830).
The Dutch wanted to
subjugate mainly Aceh and North Sumatra. This was evident by the Aceh
and Batak wars which were, in fact, connected to each other.
Politically, the Aceh
and Batak wars were coordinated as seen from the Dutch side. Two years
after the Aceh war broke out, the regional authority of King
Sisingamangaraja XII in Silindung was taken away little by little by the
Dutch (1871).
The King led the war
against the Dutch rule. The war had a great impact on the people (1875).
The Dutch became more determined in trying to subjugate North Sumatra
and they improved their military operations in the area. Their ambition
increased after knowing that this area had enormous oil resources in
Langkat which could be exploited for its commercial value.
The Dutch knew about
King Sisingamangaraja and other leaders such as King Tuan Rondahaim
Saragih, King Sibayak from Karo and other fighters from Aceh. They knew
that they would try to prevent them from carrying out their operations.
The position of The
Dutch in North Sumatra became jeopardized, particularly, after Datu
Sunggal fought the Deli Sultan (1872) who was protected by the Dutch.
There were 500 Malays and 1000 Bataks who joined the battle led by Datu
Sunggal that forced the Dutch to call for help from Captain Koops from
Riau.
Being aware of the
obvious ambition of the Dutch to expand their authority in the Batak
region, King Sisingamangaraja XII called for meetings of all the kings
and local leaders in the region (Balige).
He officially
proclaimed "Pulas" to the Dutch. It took some time and had to go through
traditional laws and regulations before King Sisingamangaraja came up
with a decision.
The meetings were not
so smooth because some conflicts arose amongst the kings. The meetings
were conducted once in four days in January 1878.
The next battles led
by the King broke out in Bahal Batu (1878), Balige (1883), Pints and
Samosir (1883), Sipoholon (1887), Simanullang Toruan (1889), Uluan
(1907), Sipangan Lolon Girsang (1907). However, because they had modern
technology, the Dutch could win the war.
This forced King
Sisingamangaraja to flee to Sionomhudon (North Sumatra). In his cornered
situation he kept saying: "It's not for the sake of my grandparents, nor
for the sake of my parents or myself but it's only for the sake of
Ompung Mula Jadi Nabolon (God)".
With this holy spirit
King Sisingamangaraja XII mobilized all kinds of power and support
against the Dutch rule from the people in North Sumatra as well as from
the people in the vicinities. He tried to maintain his authority and
keep his people free.
The troops from Aceh
were also called on to expel the Dutch from North Sumatra.
People might wonder
how King Sisingamangaraja could survive for almost 30 years. One of his
secrets was the unity principle of his leadership which was popularly
called Dalihan Natolu).
Various rewards were
offered by the Dutch to influence the King to surrender to them.
However, the offers were turned down. It was because of his strong
belief in the Mula Jadi Nabolon (God) and "the fighting spirit of the
black eyed people". As a result, he could maintain good cooperation with
other local leaders and the people in the surrounding areas.
What they fought for,
in fact, was the sovereignty and freedom of the Indonesian people in
general. Even, well equipped with their modern technology the Dutch
attacks were not successful. It made them gather all their operational
power to overthrow King Sisingamangaraja XII.
Sisingamangaraja XII and The Zending
Some schools of
thought have emerged about King Sisingamangaraja XII and the Zending.
Historians from the Netherlands and Indonesia. They have written that
Sisingamangaraja was against the mission so the aggressions he made were
not only to oppose the Dutch colonialism but also the Zending which was
wide-spread in Silindung and Toba. It is written in the Encyclopedia Van
Netherlandch Indie that, "The king continuously fought and showed
rebellious manners to the Dutch rule and the Zending."
F.W Stapel had a
different view concerning the previous statement. He said that the king
was not against the Dutch but against the Christian mission. However,
other research has proved that the other story about North Sumatra is
correct based on one important document which was written by the first
British Zending (N.M Ward) visiting this region.
It was said that the two missionaries (Ward and Burton) visited
Silindung in 1824 and were welcomed by the local people. There were
about 5000-6000 people who received them there.
After their visit in Silindung, they wanted to meet King
Sisingamangaraja X in Toba. Unfortunately, Burton had dysentery after
eating 'Saksang' (pork cooked in blood). The dysentery got worse and
forced him to return to Sibolga at once.
Not long after they
returned to Sibolga, Burton received a letter from King Sisingamangaraja
X informing him about the harvest failure in Toba. He thought it was
because of Burton's canceled visit to Toba. The King invited the two
Zendings to come immediately. However, Burton and Ward could not answer
the King's invitation because they had to go back to Bengkulu.
In 1825 Catholic
priests (Padris) came to Toba and killed King Sisingamangaraja X near
Siborong-borong. It was later known as Padri's War.
After the Padri War
broke out in South and North Tapanuli (1825-1829), the people became
suspicious of foreign visitors who came to their areas. This is how
Munson and Lyman got killed in Lobu Pining (1834) before they reached
Rura Silindung.
However, Nommensen (a
German missionary) who had worked in Silindung was able to cultivate a
good relationship with King Sisingamangaraja XII. This relationship was
very obvious. It was especially noticeable when the King invited the
missionaries to see him before he died.
In 1872
Sisingamangaraja XII ordered his messenger to meet Nommensen to ask for
some remedy for his serious illness.
With the help of Ama
Ni Panusur (a local man from Silindung), King Sisingamangaraja XII and
Nommensen could meet. The first meeting took place successfully for a
half hour in Huta Dame. The second meeting was in Nommensen' s house and
it lasted longer than the first one and the King stayed for some time in
Nommensen's house.
After Sisingamangaraja
XlI's installation at Bakara (1875) he visited Nommensen in Pearaja and
had a meeting with him. During the talk the king promised Nommensen that
he would not hinder the missionary from teaching Christianity in his
area of authority. Though, the Batak war had occurred, (1871) their
relationship continued. The relationship started getting stronger before
the war in Balige 1878.
Bakara was burnt down
by the Dutch (1883) and Sisingamangaraja got wounded and shot by the
Dutch in Balige. In 1884 he fled to Lintong with his family and then to
Sionomhudon where he died later.
After the flight,
their relationship became weaker. However, they both tried to have
direct contacts by appointing Sintua Silalan Siahaan, a former commander
of Sisingamangaraja XII, as an intermediary.
It was said that
Sisingamangaraja XlI's followers burned the church in Lintong Nihuta,
however, in fact, it was Zending Kessel's fault who brought in Dutch
soldiers from Sipoholon, as written by priest Pilgram when he was on
duty in Balige.
King Siallagan's Stone Chair
King Siallagan's tomb
is famous as a symbol of a great gateway. Tomok is famous for its
tourist market and for the stone chairs of King Siallagan. Each of these
tourist attractions has a historical and cultural story behind them.
These attractions are
about 3 km from Tomok by boat or land using public transportation.
According to the story of the guides who give information about these
tourist attractions the stone chairs were left by King Siallagan, who
was the first man who discovered Siallagan, took control over it and
opened it to outsiders.
The stone chairs were
put in the middle of a park. The houses in the village were surrounded
by stone walls about 1.5 metres high. Visitors must enter the village
through a small gate which has a stone statue standing nearby which
represents King Siallagan taking control over his people and especially
bringing justice to the criminals in that village.
According to the local
people if someone got caught committing crimes such as stealing,
cheating, torturing and murdering he would be taken to the king and the
tribal leaders.
The king would look
into the matter and decide what the punishment should be. One form of
capital punishment was to place the criminal in stocks or to have him be
headed. A death sentence had a very strict rule.
First, they determined
the execution date. The criminal, then, was put in stocks in a cage
under the king's house as a prisoner. On the day decided, under the
watch of the local leaders, the prisoner was taken out from the stocks
and brought to the place of execution.
He was given an
opportunity to say his last words or ask for the food that he liked most
(usually some particular Batak food such as 'Naniura' (sour raw fish),
Natinombur (grilled fish with lots of spices), Lomok-lomok (young pig
cooked in blood), or Nani Arsik (boiled fish with spices).
At the execution place
there were some stone chairs and a large stone table where the prisoner
was placed.
Before the execution,
the executioner would test the prisoner by cutting his body a little bit
to see if he had magic power. If he bled, it meant that he had no magic
power and the execution could take place immediately. If he did not, it
meant that he had magic power.
This meant that the
executioner would have to say special spells to remove it. Then the
executioner would scrape the cutter on the ground. Usually after this
was done the magic power of the prisoner would be gone. The execution
could continue with only one chop.
After that, the body
was thrown away in a ravine near Lake Toba. That is the unique story
about King Siallagan's Stone chair which has become a popular tourist
attraction.
The
Martyrdom of Munson and Lyman in Lobu Pining
Introduction
During the English
rule in Negerindseh Oast Indie (NOI) from 1811-1824, the English Baptist
church sent several evangelists to NOI in 1820. They were Burton, Ward,
and Evans.
These three evangelists first went to Batavia on Java and then continued
their journey to Padang and Sibolga by sea. When they arrived in Sibolga
they separated to different areas to preach the gospel. Evans went to
South Tapanuli; Burton and Ward went to Silindung. They spread the
gospel in these areas with the hope that many people would believe in
Jesus Christ and be happy.
In 1824, Burton and Ward arrived in Silindung. They talked about the Old
Testament, rebirth and the judgement day. Among the listeners, there was
a King who said, "We have our own customs and religion that are able to
manage our lives. It is good enough and we have no need to be changed
but if there are ways to make us rich please tell us and we will try
them out". The Silindung people rejected the good news brought by Burton
and Ward.
The
Kings Sidabutar's Old Tombs

Tomok is a famous
location listed in many tourist guidebooks in Asia and Europe. After
tourists arrive at the gateway of Polonia airport in Medan or Belawan
harbour, they can continue on up to Lake Toba and Tomok on Samosir
island.
It is a famous tourist
attraction with King Sidabutar's sold tombs. Tomok was the seat of King
Sidabutar's power. These tombs were made from carving stone for hundreds
of years. They are visited by many tourists every day.
According to the
tourism guide, the land around Tomok was taken under control by King
Sidabutar, his officials and heirs many years ago. Because he was a wise
king he was able to motivate his people to work daily and to uphold the
natural sacred values of the three principles (Dalihan Natolu) as a
general cultural philosophy of the Batak people.
When King Ompu
Soribuntu died, all his people were present to give and take the culture
based on the three principles. Then the king was not buried in the
ground but in the tomb carved out of the stone in the centre of the
village of Tomok.
It was a habit for
Batak people at that time that if a King died and was buried that after
seven days his descendants would plant trees called Hariara on his grave
site. It was to be as a remembrance to his descendants. If the Hariara
trees grew well, it meant that his descendants would live peacefully and
have many descendants. After seven days the King's descendants planted
the Hariara trees and they grew big. But after two years the trees fell
down because they had become old.
Then for many years
this area controlled by King Ompu Ni Ujung Barita Sidabutar who was also
a wise king and able to continue the traditions and culture of Dalihan
Natolu ( the three principles) which had been established by King Ompu
Soribuntu Sidabutar. When King Ompu Ni Ujung Barita became old, he
decided to find a partner. He became engaged to a beautiful and gentle
lady named Anting Malela Boru Sinaga. The engagement went properly.
As a sign for an
engaged woman in Batak culture, everywhere she went she had to carry a
white cup without handles over her head. Then everyone who looked at her
would know that she was engaged. It was also meant to discourage other
men from approaching her because Anting Malela was really beautiful. She
was the most beautiful woman in Tomok at that time.
Time passed by, the
wedding day had been determined. All people in this village knew about
it. But unfortunately, Anting Malela broke the promise without any
reason and did not want to get married with King Ompu Ni Ujung Barita.
His feeling were hurt and he felt ashamed in front of his people.
The king became angry.
He tried to make Anting Malela disappear her from this earth. Then he
decided that it was no use for him to try to marry her. The King wanted
to kill her by using black magic called 'Dorma Sijunde'. Then if the
black magic was successful it attacked the victim. She would not die but
would become crazy and would be insulted and expelled by society
everyday.
Anting Malela got the
'Darma Sijunde' and she became crazy. Though she had a nice figure and
was beautiful she was always insulted and avoided by everyone. For
several years Anting Malela became crazier and then one day she
disappeared. Nobody knew where she had gone. Some people said that she
had gone to the middle of the wild forest.
The King lived alone
without a wife and when he died he was buried on the right side of King
Ompu Soribuntu. Then after seven days the Hariara trees were planted on
his tomb and they grew rapidly and thickly. We can still see these
trees. The King's tomb was carved in a such away that you can see the
front part of the face of King Ompu Soribuntu Sidabutar wearing head
gear like a turban which was a sign of Batak peoples' beliefs.
The same thing had
been done to King Ompu Sonbuntu Sidabutar' s tomb. Behind the tomb was
Anting Malela sculpture was carved sitting and carrying a cup (without
handles) over her head to remind people not to behave like she had.
Then Tomok' s kingdom
was continued by King Ompu Solompoan Sidabutar. He could lead his people
all his life peacefully based on the three principles.
After the missionaries
from Europe had come to Samosir island, they spread Christianity among
the Bataks. King Ompu Solompoan Sidabutar was the first man to become a
Christian in Tomok and helped to spread Christianity.
When the King died he
was buried on the right side of king Ompu Ni Ujung Barita Sidabutar's
tomb. He was not buried in the stone tomb but in the ground. The sign of
a cross was placed over his grave. If we visit King Sidabutar's tombs,
we will see several tombs including some smaller ones. All these tombs
were King Sidabutar's which have been collected so many years ago
through cultural ceremonies
|